Wednesday, December 14, 2011


I have been absent for awhile because I hurt my back and have been unable to do much in terms of modeling. But I did manage to get some stuff painted before that happened though so I will just be posting some update photos of my Cryx army. No blood effects tutorial though unfortunately, that will be up after Christmas sometime. I have lots to discuss in the new year and will try to be more adamant about posting once the holidays slow down. Have a happy and safe whatever you celebrate!

All the minis shown are done being painted, but have not had the finishing touches added yet like battle damage, blood effects, barrel holes or scenic bases. All colors used are GW paints. I am more worried about getting everything painted first and then go back in to all the minis at one time and finish them off. This is how I go about preventing painters burn out. I like to have a few different projects on the go, so if I don't feel like doing a particular thing, I can just do something else that is still productive.

Bone Jacks:

I decided awhile ago I was going to go with a blue black scheme for Deneghra's battlegroup. I discovered really early on it is extremely difficult to wet blend black with any color. I tried a few different things before I found this combo. I tried layering the paint first and found it looked too blockey, you could see a clear separation between  the colors, so I tried just straight blending it. It looked too soft for my tastes so I started over and used a combination of techniques. I wet blended the bottom areas with black and blue a quarter of the way up, then let it dry. I then layered  regal blue, starting just above the line of transition, and once it was dry I applied blue wash to the whole area. This brought the blue down to a more even tone with the black, I then drybrushed the top or the armor plating with enchanted blue, and letting it softly tranition into the darker blue. I then applied another layer of blue wash to the top half, making sure only to cover the areas that are enchanted blue. I then did a small bit of straight blending at the very top where light would glint the sharpest.

This paint scheme ended up being more of a challenge than I thought it would be. But it was nice to fumble my way through, and figure it out (Even if it was frustrating). I am attempting something a little simpler for the Slayer Hell Jack. So far I have painted it with a base of blue and applied two layers of black wash to bring it down almost to a black, I might end up just doing the 6 step process I just described though, we'll see.

Skarlock Thrall:

 I had a hard time getting the pure white spectre flesh to look right. I painted the body three different times over before I got it to the point where I was.... we'll say pleased. Not entirely happy of rearing to show it off, just content and ready to move on. The green "ectoplasm" I tried to go for a "Slimer" from "Ghostbusters" feel. In person it looks a little more yellow green than in the pictures. I Started with a base of snot green and gave it a coat of green wash. I then layered and highlighted up the green spectrum until I reached scorpion green. For the final highlight I mixed 1:1:2 ratio of scorpion green, sunburst yellow, water and just applied it to the edges. I wish I had "Nec. Green" from Privateer press at the time but I did not. The Slayer has it on the vents and it really makes the green vents glow.

Pistol Wraith (Alt):

Pretty straight forward, Liked the way it turned out. It was a bit of a bitch painting it though because every time my finger touched the back plumes or the robes the paint would come off and I would have to re touch it, and re-touch it. So I suggest gut leaving the back plumes till the very end, just paint the top and sides of the robes.

Bile Thralls:

I had just used one mini for the tutorial and cut the pictures after the flesh was done. I only had 8 but have since gotten the other two for a full squad. I haven't completed them yet but here is the squad of 8.

Really happy with the way they turned out, they should look crazy with some blood effects.
So that's all I have finished painting for my army thus far. I am about half done the slayer, and the other two bile thralls so hopefully I can get started on the other unit and two solo's!

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

WM:Two Player box

 Got the Warmachine: Two Player Box set today, featuring the armies of Menoth and Khador. After cracking it open  I thought I would do an unboxing for the people who are unfamiliar with Warmachine, or are just curious to what the contents of the box are.The box set comes with two armies and everything you will need to start playing the game of Warmachine.The minis are unassembled and unpainted so there will be some standard modeling work to be done before you can actually start playing.

Inside the box is a tournament sized full color rulebook that has only the rules for the game. There are no back stories or fluff. This rulebook is similar to the rulebooks that come in the "Warhammer Starter Sets." There is also an introduction guide that familiarizes you with the contents of the box and a quick look at some of the other factions in the Iron Kingdom world. It also comes with a quick start rule leaflet that is also in the battle boxes you can buy for each faction. Set also includes four d6, a paper ruler, full color stat cards for each model included in the box, and of course the minis.

The models included for the Khador Faction are:
Kommander Sorscha
Juggernaut Heavy Warjack
Destroyer Heavy Warjack
and 5 Man-O-War Shocktroopers (Unit)

Menoth Army comes with:

High Exemplar Kreoss
Crusader Heavy Warjack
Vanquisher Heavy Warjack
Repenter Light Warjack
5 Exemplar Cinerators (Unit).

Once I get the stuff assembled I will post some pictures of everything. My first impressions are really good. Some of the resin pieces have bent and will be need to be straightened out in warm water, but this is to be expected. The rule book has a matte finish to the pages which make it kinda look like I printed it at home in full color from a high quality pdf. Other than that I am very pleased with the minimalist approach to packaging and the models look really good and clean. It looks like they may have been already cut off a sprue, I hope upon closer inspection I won't have to do too much gap filling, or have any poor cuts or gouges. Only time will tell.With that all said I would still recommend this box set to anyone interested in getting started in the game, or if you are an existing player looking to get into one of the two featured armies.

Until next time happy gaming!

Thursday, October 6, 2011

How to Paint Rotting Flesh

Hey Everyone! Now that I have finished the commission I have gotten back to painting my Cryx stuff. I decided to give the Bile Thralls a go because I have not painted zombies before. I always like to do a little research on how to go about painting certain things or looking at artwork or images to get a visual reference. This was particularly hard because there are not too many good references, that I found, that satisfied the style I was looking for. I also went to Google images and looked up drowned victims from police photos or newspapers to get an idea of what flesh does when it bloats. Again these images were few and far between and the ones I could find were pretty hard to look at for more than ten minutes.

So to save you the trouble (and the nausea) I will just explain what effect you will be going for. If you look a the Cryx army book painting section they give you a step by step guide for thrall flesh, however I don't particularly like the way they look in the book. I find it a little too animated looking and not dead enough. When flesh bloats it can change into a number of colors at different stages of decomposition. In the early stages the flesh turns a pale yellow, and the veins, blood and organs start to congeal giving the skin a transparent look with different shades of yellow, purple, blue, red, green, and pale white.

As the skin breaks down more there will be the presence of dark to light gray, and in some areas black, by this stage the skin is very distorted to the point where faces are enlarged or sunken in and the skin becomes tight. I Imagine it would depend on the environment they were in when the body started to decompose to what shape and colors the skin would take on as it breaks down. I wanted to go for the fresh to mid range decomposition level. To achieve this I borrowed some of the techniques from the book and used some colors that I felt would compliment the look of bloat, rather than full out zombie rot.

Colors Needed:
"Rotting Flesh"
"Bubonic Brown"
"Liche Purple"
"Catachan Green"
"Scab Red"
"Red Gore"
"Blood Red"
Purple and Blue Wash.

Paint all the flesh with a base coat of Rotting Flesh until it completely covers the primer.While this dries we are going to create our own washes out of Liche Purple and Catachan Green paint. To do this you will need 4 drops of mixing medium (Fluid retarder), 3 drops of water, and one drop paint. Make up a purple and green wash at the same time. It should look like this.

The dark purple on the left if drying diluted paint, I just mixed a little paint in with a few drops of pure medium and once it was watered down I painted it around the areas where the pipes connected to the skin to give it a deep bruising effect. You can see how watery the wash is in comparison. Apply the purple wash first all over the rotting Flesh base, and when it dries go over it again with the catachan green wash to bring the purple down and fill the recesses with a swampy, dirty look. It should look like this.

Next we are going to make a glaze of Bubonic Brown to bring down the purple even more and to lay a base and transition color for the rotting flesh highlighting we are going to do later on. Add 1 drop of paint to the palette, and dilute it with 2 drops of water. This will allow you to build up thin layers to maintain the transparency look of bloating flesh, but also give the skin a sickly look. Make sure only to paint the areas that will be highlighted later, make sure to leave the recesses dark with the green and purple wash, and also leave some of the purple as bruising in some of the areas. It should look something like this:

Next place some more purple wash over the bubonic brown in random areas around the body, and take the catachan green wash and drop it into the the areas that need shading and line in under the folds of the skin.

This is also a good time to paint in some veins randomly throughout the body with diluted black and Enchanted Blue. Next, we are going to overbrush the areas that are hit with light with a few thin layers of Rotting Flesh, highlighting all the areas, and blending the paint into the bubonic brown layer from the previous step to give it a smooth transition. Once again you want to leave some of the purple showing to give it a bruised, old meat look. It should look like something like this:

Now take your blue wash and shade or line in under the skin folds and in between the slits in the rib cage. You can also put a little blue wash on a few discrete areas on the skin as well as a wash of Bubonic yellow in a few areas on the legs and armpits to give the appearance of blue and yellow bruising at this time. It should look like this:

Next we are going to highlight the edges of the model around any exposed inards, and on the arma, legs and feet that light hits when the light source is directly above the model.

Now we are going to paint the intestines with a base of Scab Red.

Then on each section or the intestine I'm going to paint a line of Red Gore on the upper half of that section.

Then I'm going to highlight the top of each section with a thin line of Blood red, and once it is dry paint the stitches with Rotting flesh flesh right out of the pot.

And that's how I go about painting bloated flesh. For zombies I would use less bubonic yellow, or none at all. I might just go for a bruised rotting flesh look using the wash technique I used here but only bringing up the flesh with rotting flesh and bloody it up. Speaking of which you may have wondered why there is no gore on these undead?

Well there will be and I will be doing a tutorial on blood effects. I am going to do the blood effects after the paint job has been sealed and then seal the blood effects with a gloss varnish to give the blood a wet appearance. Also based on the fluff of Bile Thralls, they spew acid out of their guns from tubes hooked up to their stomach and mouth, so I will be adding some green acid effects into the mix as well. Once I get the whole unit pained completely and sealed I will put up a tutorial on blood effects hopefully before Halloween! Until then joyous painting!

Friday, September 23, 2011

More terrain inspiration

Down in behind the fortress there is an area called "Sleepy Cove." This stretch below the fortress along the coastline is peppered with hidden pill boxes nestled into the forest, another set of Observation Towers and a second Battery that was added during the 1940's. Hurricane Juan destroyed much of the area five years ago, and it is now closed off by parks Canada so I was only able to get a few pictures of the area for now. The first wall pictures are a restored section of the original walls from the fortress.

On the way down to Sleepy Cove.

Hidden pillbox

The forward observation post with scout/sniper towers, and gun battery.

I'll try and get some pics of the hidden stuff when the area opens up again.

Next up: Painting bloated/rotted/zombie/dead flesh.